Spoil your taste buds
Cempazuchi gets it right every time
By Miranda Agee
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The tostadas are perfect for vegetarians, yet they still have the outstanding flavor combinations to satisfy any carnivore.
I have been, very diligently, trying not to write about Cempazuchi on Brady Street. Why you may ask? Well, it’s because I am very biased. Not because I know the owner (which I absolutely do not), or because I know a server (I wish I did, I love free drinks) but because it’s my “go to” place to eat. I am in love with this restaurant for the food, decor, service and authenticity of southern Mexican cuisine.
Walking into the restaurant, I am always bombarded with color. The flowered and brightly colored tablecloths complement the large Mexico-inspired murals on the walls. On weekends the place is always packed to the brim. Expect at least a 45 minutes wait on a table if you haven’t already made a reservation on a Friday or Saturday night.
If you do find yourself waiting, squeeze your way into the bar, hold out your cash and get started on those margaritas. They weren’t voted Best Margarita in Milwaukee this year for nothing.
Start with the perfect La Ganga margarita ($5.00) or their signature sangria ($6.50).
When you get to your table, your server will ask if you are familiar with their salsas. And if you have never been there before, you need to say, “No, I am not,” because you are in for a completely different experience.
Leave tomato, onion and cilantro salsas to the likes of La Perla. Here, you get to dip your chip in a mild peanut salsa. Chunky in texture and mild in flavor, I always ask for extra to put on my entrees. The second salsa incorporates tastes that are smoky and fiery. It adds the perfect amount of heat for those who like their salsa hotter.
Some favorites off of the menu include Tostada Florentina ($7.95) and the very chunky guacamole ($6.25). The tostadas are perfect for vegetarians, yet they still have the outstanding flavor combinations to satisfy any carnivore.
A warm tostada is pilled high with a large scoop of goat cheese. Sautéed spinach, black beans and guacamole finish them off. They sound so simplistic, but they are just too amazing to be put in the simple category.
The guacamole is absolutely perfect. I am on a never-ending search to find the perfect guacamole in Milwaukee, but I always have to leave Cempazuchi out. They have an unfair advantage of revolving their restaurant around the idea of dedication to authenticity.
It’s so much more than a mashed up avocado and some herbs and onions. It is made fresh daily, and the flavors of lime and cilantro are so abundant it almost melts in my mouth every time.
Another favorite of mine is the Ensalada de Jicama ($6.50). Again, this salad seems so simple, but it is just way too satisfying. Jicama (hee-kah-mah) is, in its simplest terms, a Mexican potato root. The root is the only part that is edible due to the poisonous nature of the seeds. In the salad, it is shredded and lightly dressed with a creamy dressing. Tender greens, grapefruit segments and slices of avocado finish it off for a very figure-friendly and satisfying dish.
The first time I had the Enchilda Suiza ($10.50) was just a couple of days ago. I got very mad at myself for never trying them before. For a girl who normally does not eat enchiladas, these were amazingly good, and again, a perfect vegetarian dish.
Spinach, potatoes, mushrooms and zucchini were sautéed and then stuffed into three large torillas. They were topped off with a light chili poblano cream sauce and garnished with cilantro. They were very good but also very filling.
I suggest that if you decide on these enchiladas for an entrée, limit yourself to one basket of chips (it’s hard, I know), and one appetizer. Taking the enchiladas home for lunch the next day is not a good option. The flavor is lost and reheating them leaves them soggy and resembling wet cat food.
A couple of weeks ago, I made the mistake of going there late on a Friday night and wanting dinner. I was forced to wait but I was glad I did. Pasted on the side of a wooden storage cabinet is a review of Cempazuchi from The New York Times. I couldn’t believe it.
The restaurant that a lot of people in Milwaukee seem to be scared of for its bold flavors was noted by The Times as one of the places that every visitor to Milwaukee has to eat at. I couldn’t agree more.
Don’t be scared of “different” flavors, embrace them, eat them, love them. When you finally do, you’ll look back to your Walker’s Point “Mexican” food places and wonder, “What was I thinking?”
A+




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