Nearly hidden in the back, the non-smoking dining room still retains the aesthetic contours of a former home under the surface, making for a surprisingly intimate setting to just unwind and enjoy.

In the midst of the always changing, ever-so eclectic Riverwest neighborhood, a uniquely Wisconsin tradition still thrives.

Klinger’s East Bar & Grill has been a staple of the Riverwest community for 31 years, serving food and drink while also actively participating in neighborhood organizations. Originally a sports bar, around the mid-1980s the owner, Glen Klinger, decided to import a small town taste to the big city: The Friday night fish fry.

While moving through the crowd of regular patrons, I couldn’t help remembering the dozens of fish fries I’d attended as a child while often passing through the woodlands of northwestern Wisconsin. Even in my relatively young lifetime, one could find nearly the entire population of some of those small towns brought together weekly by the local fish fry.

Yet, I’d assumed they had all but completely vanished from larger cities like Milwaukee. At Klinger’s the crowd may have changed, but the idea’s the same.

“We get students and 70-year-olds,” said Klinger, “It’s not a real shirt and tie joint, although we get some.”

Looking around during the Friday dinner hour, he’s absolutely right. Older regulars sit shoulder to shoulder with the ever-fluctuating student population. Whether watching the game, playing pool, or enjoying a classic meal complete with a pitcher of local brew, familiarity brings many out to Klinger’s on Fridays.

While dining at the fish fry, one could hardly gather that Klinger’s is one of just a few places in Milwaukee still carrying on this tradition. In Oct. 2004, “Gourmet” magazine took notice and featured Klinger’s continued enthusiastic devotion to this distinct Midwest legacy. In keeping with its down home roots, the Friday wait staff includes Glen’s wife, Sue, as hostess/maitre d’ as well as others in a close-knit crew accommodating of the incredibly diverse range of customers. Small town hospitality is alive and well.

The meal itself consists of two large strips of fish, mainly cod, along with waffle fries or potato pancakes, priced at about $6-$8 depending on one’s appetite for all you can eat. The meal also comes with bread and coleslaw. Indeed the greatest aspect of the fish fry cuisine is not mystery or surprise, rather expectation, of which Klinger’s delivers the goods. Just one bite takes me back to days gone by at any number of places I attended with family and friends.

Alas, times have changed a bit since then. All personal nostalgic remembrances aside, Klinger’s has all the elements of a local community tavern. The traditional aspect of the meal is only accentuated by the arrangement and decor. In the early ’80s, Klinger’s expanded into the adjacent empty house next door, which now serves as both the smoking and non-smoking dining rooms on the first floor. Nearly hidden in the back, the non-smoking dining room still retains the aesthetic contours of a former home under the surface, making for a surprisingly intimate setting to just unwind and enjoy.

During the rest of the week, Klinger’s has traditionally been a great local stop for Packers and Brewers games, serving cheeseburgers, chili, and soups while also providing a similarly distinct community atmosphere.

As far as the future is concerned, Glen Klinger, soon turning 60, said he expects Klinger’s to continually flow as the community flows.

“I don’t think I’ll ever become a martini bar, but you never know…” Klinger’s East is located at 920 E. Locust Street.

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