Cheap on price, not on flavor
Hinterland’s lounge menu offers sassy small plates
By Miranda Agee
E-mail
Print- Share on Facebook
-
Seed Newsvine
- Text size:
My heart sank. “Oh no,” I thought to myself. “The secret is out about Hinterland.” I immediately had visions of a two hour wait time and a grumbling stomach. Thankfully, it was only a vision.
Looking through the large picture window on 222 E. Erie St., I could see people everywhere. They were standing in the lobby, seated at every chair at the bar and relaxing in the large grandmother chairs.
My heart sank. “Oh no,” I thought to myself. “The secret is out about Hinterland.” I immediately had visions of a two hour wait time and a grumbling stomach. Thankfully, it was only a vision.
Just as before, my dining companion and I were greeted at the door with a warm smile and almost immediately ushered to the bar. The bartender started us off with a couple glasses of Hinterland’s diverse and handcrafted beer selections, which are starting to gain more popularity around the area.
The menu, almost as decadent and exciting as the one in last week’s review, didn’t lose its diverse and satisfying appeal.
We attempted to order light this time around to try to avoid the “waddle out of the restaurant” effect that we’ve experienced in our previous visits. Let me just say, that did not happen. Even with the small plates and light entrees offered on the lounge menu, their attractively small prices allowed us to splurge.
We started off with the cauliflower bisque ($7). Cauliflower is known for its bland flavor and spongy texture, but this soup put those notions to rest. Intense with flavor and creaminess, the soup was so good I really had a hard time sharing it with my companion for the evening.
The roasted beet and arugula salad ($8) was a lovely palette cleanser. Lemon truffle vinaigrette lightly dressed the greens and beets with a mild tanginess.
Rogue River blue cheese, a fun and distinct variety, took this salad from great to stunningly divine. After constructing the wheel of cheese, Rogue River blue cheese is wrapped with brandy soaked grape leaves for six months. This technique allows the blue veins to surrender their tangy flavor in exchange for the enhanced sweetness the liqueur provides. The combination of sweet beets, mildly sweet cheese and tangy lemon vinaigrette gives this salad a pungent flavor.
I need to note the fabulous staff at this establishment. Not only do they seem excited to be working for such an innovative and grand restaurant, they are excited to be serving you. Our bartender seemed very interested in our opinions on the food that we chose that evening.
I was looking forward to my entree, fish tacos ($10), to be put in front of me. The warm corn tortillas were filled to the brim with lightly battered fish, red cabbage, sweet corn salsa and a fair amount of cilantro aioli.
I have to say, I was slightly disappointed with the flavor combinations, or lack thereof. I requested a lime from our bartender and I did feel bad doing so.
I wanted to be very happy with what Chef Qualley had plated that evening, and I generally was, but the tacos needed the little extra help of some acidity.
It was after one extremely juicy wedge of lime that I fell in love with this dish. The flavors were very summery, but they were so explosive my obsession with fall flavors dissipated.
My dining companion could not wait to sink his teeth into the Kobe beef sliders ($12). Three small and towering burgers sat on a plate waiting to be devoured. Juicy and succulent beef was grilled to a heavenly medium rare. The sliders were married with the flavors of arugula, tomatoes, eight-year aged cheddar cheese and buttermilk fried onions. This is, without a doubt, the most popular item on the menu.
Even after our large entrees, the gluttons inside of us wanted more. So, we decided on our last item of the night to be the wood-fired grilled flatbread ($10). The flavors were absolutely outstanding.
Smoked duck was layered with creamy goat cheese, caramelized onions, peppery greens and preserved orange rind. It was then finished off with a light drizzle of decadent truffle oil. Cut into triangles and served much like pizza, this dish was a beautiful way to end our meal.
Hinterland came to Milwaukee to offer us something that we are not used to - absolutely exquisite flavors set in a laid back and truly approachable atmosphere. By no means should anyone feel intimidated by Hinterland and what they have to offer; that is not the point.
The point is to eat great food, wear your favorite pair of jeans and put you feet up. Nothing you do here could be considered out of place, besides failing to clean your plate.




> Comments