Archived: Mar 15, 2006

> East Side Guide

Full of zest

Gil’s Cafe offers more than just regular, decaf

By JJ Burseth

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Don’t let the name confuse you, because Gil’s is not a traditional cafe.

Although they do sell different coffee drinks and teas, this is more of an alehouse than a coffee shop. I probably should have done a little research before I walked through the doors, but I naively expected this to be a coffee shop with sandwiches.

Located about five blocks south of campus, this somewhat classy hangout mixes a variety of cultures. The blend of a genuine Milwaukee restaurant and a striking Mardi Gras motif is what makes Gil’s an interesting place.

The purple walls set inside an old brick building are covered in exotically colorful paintings, surrounding wood tables and chairs. Although I never saw the other level in the restaurant, the dining room is a unique and comfortable space. The high wood ceiling gave the room a very open feeling, and jazz played quietly over the speakers.

I ordered the smokehouse sandwich, which is smoked turkey, ham, bacon and provolone cheese. Greasier than expected, the contents of the sandwich slipped right out of the crispy bread. I didn’t expect to have to find a bib to eat a sandwich.

The sandwich came with Santa Fe French fries, which were covered in salt, pepper and zesty spices. Besides the potential for a mess, the food seemed to fit the atmosphere correctly and was worth the $8.50.

There was an unexpected variety of food to choose from, all about $7 to $15. The menu had the predictable appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees, but they also have a lot of colorful pizzas to choose from, as well as a Friday fish fry of bluegill, perch and Atlantic cod.

Gil’s also offers brunch on Saturday and Sunday, which includes omelets. A variety of drinks tops off the extensive menu.

My server was a nice guy with a Mohawk, who kept talking to the bartender about his lead singer. He was somewhat monotonous, but I was pleased with his recommendations and graciousness.

Although I would not advise most people to go to Gil’s Cafe for lunch or just a coffee, it is an ideal hangout in the evening hours, with a laidback atmosphere that occasionally has musicians play on the weekends.

Check out Gil’s for a little pizzazz in a true Milwaukee establishment.

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Gil’s Cafe

2608 N. Downer Ave.
964-4455
gilscafe.com

Monday – Friday, 10:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
Saturday – Sunday, 9 a.m.-10:30 p.m.
Later hours in the summer

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