Archived: Dec 07, 2005

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Casual Italian dining just off campus

Entrees good, but sides not up to par

By Maureen Mayrand

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Sala da Pranzo offers the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee campus a great alternative to the tired subs and greasy pizza that are typically served during lunch.

Those who desire a nice conversation over their meal, as opposed to the chaos in the Union, should find themselves at this quaint restaurant located off of Downer Avenue, next to the Panther Bookstore.

Sala da Pranzo, Italian for “the dining room,” puts forth a broad array of authentic Italian cuisine. The establishment was home to Rainbow Jersey cycling shop and a series of cafes before siblings Teresa and Tony Balistreri opened Sala da Pranzo’s doors four years ago. Teresa runs the dining room and Tony is in charge of the kitchen.

With its terrific food, service and atmosphere and modest prices, Sala da Pranzo is a must for any occasion, whether for a date or to simply get away from a noisy campus to study over a glass of wine.

A couple weeks ago, a friend and I went to the restaurant to meet for a noon lunch. Although the restaurant is accessible to students and faculty on campus, it is not so easy for those outside of the university’s prism. Parking is a pain. I was forced to pick my lunch date up at Veterans Park, and even with one vehicle, we had trouble finding a spot.

Once inside the restaurant, we passed the small service bar and a deli case filled with gourmet sandwiches, pastas and desserts. Behind the counter is a display of red and white wines, along with a few imported beers.

The hostess politely warned us to watch our step before we entered the main dining room, which shows evidence of its past as a coffeehouse. The linoleum tile floors are covered with a dozen or so wooden tables and chairs, each table adorned with fresh fall flowers and white cloth napkins. A varied group of paintings from family artists decorate the yellow walls. The windowsills are lined with succulent jade and aloe plants. Billie Holiday chants in the background, adding to the cozy feel.

Immediately, we were set up with two slices of Italian bread and our glasses were filled with water. Our curly-haired waitress rattled off the specials, then offered us a drink. I chose a glass of crisp pinot grigio ($4.75) and my companion opted for a hot glass of apple cider that delivered a sweet aroma to our table.

We each started with a cup of homemade soup ($1.95). I ordered the minestrone that was mediocre at best (it reminded me of Campbell’s Chunky Soup). The tomato base was too thick, and the vegetables were too mushy. My friend’s soup, however, had me wishing I had decided on the other soup choice, creamy pumpkin sage. It was like heaven: a mix of celery, pumpkin and carrots in a cream base, with parmesan and oregano sprinkled over the top. Our server promptly brought over more bread, which we enjoyed with the soup.

We were not quite finished with our soup when our lunches were brought to the table. I ordered the caprese panini foccacia ($5.95) with misto pasta salad. With all sandwiches, diners are given the choice of one side: marinated vegetables, pasta salad or potato salad.

The caprese panini foccacia sandwich is a must, especially for vegetarians. It is served with fresh mozzarella and a vine-ripened tomato and sprinkled with basil. The mozzarella is not typical; it is whiter and creamier than what most Americans are used to. It certainly makes the sandwich. The mouth-watering panini bread is moistened with a dash of vinegar and oil.

The misto salad wasn’t as good, but it did fill me up. This cold pasta salad is made with a balsamic Dijon dressing and comprised of fresh spinach, red bell peppers and pepperoncini. It didn’t impress me any more than the pasta salad at Fazoli’s.

My dining companion ordered the Italian beef sub ($7.95) with a side of marinated vegetables. The roast beef is simmered in red sauce and topped with mozzarella cheese. Again, the mozzarella cheese was excellent, putting American versions to shame.

My lunch date complained that there was too much marinara on the sandwich and he had to dabble quite a bit of pepper on it, which told me that it was blandly seasoned. He wasn’t thrilled with the size of the sub either, as we Americans are used to six inches as a small. His was half that size.

His mixed vegetables were comprised of the same ingredients used for the minestrone — zucchini, red peppers and onion — in a lemon marinade served on a bed of lettuce. What many would perceive as a boring side dish was made scrumptious by the lemon marinade.

Three drinks each and a decent meal later, we were ready to share dessert. The tiramisu ($4.50) was presented beautifully. The moist dessert was laced with chocolate syrup and complimented with fanned-out strawberries and raspberries. It was so moist that it literally melted in my mouth. While this liquid dessert may turn some off, we thought it was splendid.

When we were finished, our waitress kindly asked us if we enjoyed everything and came back with our bill, which totaled $42.75. To the average college student, this may seem like a high-priced lunch, but keep in mind I enjoyed three glasses of wine, something that I could have done without. Overall the service, food and atmosphere were excellent.

3 1/2 stars out of 5

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Sala da Pranzo

2613 E. Hampshire Ave.
964-2611
Hours:
Monday through Thursday: 11a.m.-9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday: Closed
Cuisine: Italian
Price: Lunch: $5-$10;
Dinner: $8.50-$26
Attire: Casual
Reservations: Nights and Weekends
Payment: Credit Cards Accepted

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